Frank Bruni leaves a void at the Times

food criticPrior to moving to New York 5 years ago, I didn’t read the Times regularly, and when I did, it was usually the Business or the Market sections; I never subscribed to it. Really I still don’t but my neighbor had a subscription that he over paid a year for and has never changed the delivery address after moving, so I’m fortunate to have a free subscription by proxy.

I’ve always been a “foodie” but haven’t had the “disposable” income to explore great restaurants until that move to New York. I use “disposable” lightly because I could have very well cooked at home more and become more financially liquid, however, this isNew York, one of the greatest dining cities in the world; there’s no way I’m going to pass up eating quality, unique and worldly food.

I have 5 years personal in restaurant experience as either a waiter or a chef, and local eating experiences at Bay Area, Central Coast or Santa Monica joints. I never really read restaurant reviews or reviewed my own (Yelp) until my move to NY. I was then introduced to the world of restaurant reviews with my subscription to Time Out NY and then expanded it to include reviews from Frank Bruni, eater.com, Gael Greene, and of course person-to-person reviews on Yelp.

This week Frank Bruni will be leaving the Times and has added a few parting thoughts comparing his favorites in and around New York. He notes some of my favorite restaurants in NY, including the Spotted Pig, Momofuku Ssam Bar, Prune, Minetta Tavern, Locanda Verde, Five Points, DBGB, Public, and PDT, and he’s given me a few more suggestions now for my next restaurant exploration. Give his last column a read.

Mid-town pretension

I don’t spend much time up town. Actually anything above 14th st or Union Sq for non-business reasons doesn’t get much time in for me unless it’s central park, a show, gallery or museum of my calling, or to see the woman. Tonight was one of those nights I was up for business to take some clients out; we met at the hotel bar that takes great care of us: Abboccato. George manages a great restaurant if you’re up for some unique and tasty Italian and Lana a non-drinker, knows her way around Italian wines and grappas.

On recommendation we took our guys up to. BLT Market on Central Park South, next to the Ritz. Already knowing the Ritz’s Star Lounge that connects the hotel and the restaurant, provides the cocktail service, I knew there’d be some pretense (and cost) for the evening heading here. As we walked in, I expected a wait, and greeted well by the hostess staff, they proclaiming we’d be eating in 20 min. Norman was the bartender this night and set us up nicely with some scotch whiskey.

20 minutes pass and then 30 then 40. Despite my own tardiness at times, I feel disrespected as a customer when restaurants don’t seat you at appropriate times. If the wait is 40 say Four-T, not 20 to appease the customer and apologize later.

Apparently it all got worse from there. Laurent Tourondel is New York’s famed French-born chef that is highly praised through out the city, however, this evening, the chefs and service were not executed to precision and made for one of my worst dining experiences in some time. The best part may have been the hot dog appetizers which were served free with the meal. I had a well cooked braised lamb but cod and duck were not cooked well. The service intermittent and being sat closest to the front door was the top irritant of the night.

I may be back but only on the recommendation and someone else’s dime. We spent the rest of the evening back at the hotel participating in grappa tastings and creating today’s hangover…