I just finished Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, and my timing is impeccable again as it’s two months after I visited Savannah, GA; the setting for this nonfiction novel and it’s cast of eccentric personalities.
The Law and I spent 3 days getting and intimate tour of the historic district, staying at a local bed & breakfast and relaxing with a “father’s favorite” beers in the last of the 80 degree weather I’ll get till April-May. Savannah is steeped in mystery, intrigue and history viewable daily around the 22 public squares, old oak trees draped in Spanish moss like forgotten Halloween decor and the memorials for those loved and lost during the War of Aggression from the North. As you walk the eerily quite streets, you can feel the presence of the thousands of unmarked dead laid to rest around the city.
We explored the Mercer House, took lapse around Forsyth Park, had candy apples and beers on the Riverfront, breezed through the touristy City Market, had cocktails at Rocks On the Roof over looking the the largest port in GA, and wondered if it’s art or modern design coming out of SCAD these days.
More or a much needed relaxation trip, the rest was guaranteed after all the fantastic eating we engorged ourselves with. I had two of the best meals of my travels at Mrs Wilkes’ Dining Room for some “down home” cooking (I bought her cookbook so I could make the chicken and biscuits at home!) and The Olde Pink House Restaurant for some contemporary high end southern (the fried green tomatoes and crab cake appetizer is a must). Eating al fresco at B. Matthew’s Eatery a former dirty business brothel and Huey’s On the River with excellent Cajun/Creole dishes were both excellent spots was made better sipping local brews from Moon River and Sweetwater.
Even thought he B&B served custom breakfasts daily, we would eat out most mornings, even if it’s just a good cup of coffee at the Sentient Bean after a morning walk through the Victorian district. Clary’s Cafe was the best morning (and evening served) breakfast meal especially when you feel like a regular, from the first “How ya’ll doing this mornin’?”. After a brunch of sharing both a country fried steak, grits, biscuits, omelet and hash scramble I needed a nap in the near by Colonial Park Cemetery.
Disappointments were few, however, I wasn’t impressed with the BBQ (Angel’s) or the “must have” Leopold’s ice cream. Any mediocre cup of gelato in Little Italy would have been better but Leopold’s has that classic 50’s Pop Parlor feel to it – I saw George McFly working the soda fountain.
Savannah has no open container laws in the historic district or on Tybee Island. I took full advantage of this exploring the Riverfront’s Kevin Barry’s, Molly MacPherson’s, Jen’s and Friends (cheap beers and flavored martini’s for those that like em), Crystal Beer Parlor (mediocre food but great deal on 5 beers for $5 “Old Father’s Favorites” – we chatted Savannah history with locals over a few Ole’ Mickey’s, Ballantine Ale, Old Milwaukee, Schlitz, and Stroh’s), and one of my favorite’s Pinkie Master’s Lounge.
The only activity I didn’t get a chance to do was the Hearse Ghost Tours. As kitschy and touristy is most tours are, I would go back just to take a midnight tour in a hearse of Bonaventure Cemetery. And of course to come back for the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and stay in Tybee Island – both event and location revolve around southern hospitality aka boozing – which worked out well for this historic Cotton Exchange Fountain originally erected in 1889, mowed down by a drunk driver in 2008:
The rest of my pictures are still being edited and will be up on the Smugmug in a few days but looking through my shots, I didn’t do the town justice. It was obvious that photography was second thought to just taking in the beauty and genteel nature of the people and this great southern town.
One of my favorite condiments just happens to be Savannah Bee Company honey and to taste straight from the comb was an additional foodie highlight. My picture of the day for day 23 of my 365 project was taken over the summer in my parent’s sunflower garden.
Styleo, the first track from the new Gorillaz album Plastic Beach, has been released. The track features Mos Def and Bobby Womack. The album will be released on March 8th and include artists De La Soul, Little Dragon, Lou Reed, Snoop Dogg & The Hypnotic Brass Ensemble and more. Looking forward to it, here’s a taste (credit Giant Step)
Gorillaz featuring Mos Def & Bobby Womack – “Stylo” from Plastic Beach (right click to download)